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Fine Lines & Wrinkles FAQs

What actually works on lines and wrinkles?

A short list, and everything else is support.

  • Retinoids are the most proven topical there is for the look of lines. The Medik8 Crystal Retinal ladder runs from 1 to 24 so you can build up slowly
  • Vitamin C protects against the damage that creates new lines, and SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is the reference product
  • Peptides signal the skin to build more of its own support. SkinCeuticals P-Tiox and Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP both work this way
  • Daily SPF does more than all three combined, because most visible ageing is sun exposure rather than time

If you only ever do two things, make them sunscreen every morning and a retinoid at night.

Which retinoid strength should I start on?

Lower than you think, and you move up only when the current one feels like nothing.

  • Complete beginner: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 or COSRX The Retinol 0.3 Cream
  • Some experience: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3, SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 or Image Skincare AGELESS+ Retinol Repair Cream 0.3% Retinol Complex
  • Well established: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 or 10, or ZO Skin Health Wrinkle + Texture Repair 0.5 % Retinol
  • Experienced and tolerant: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 20, Reform Skincare Retinol 1% Creme or Image Skincare AGELESS+ Retinol Treatment Creme 1.2% Retinol Complex

Two nights a week for a month, then three, then alternate nights. Most people never need to go past the middle of that list to get the result they want.

What is the difference between retinol and retinal?

How many steps they take to convert. Your skin can only use retinoic acid, and everything else has to turn into it first.

Retinol takes two conversion steps. Retinal takes one, so it works faster at a comparable strength. That is the thinking behind the Crystal Retinal range.

Faster is not automatically better. If your skin is on the sensitive side, a retinol gives it more time to adjust. Bakuchiol is the gentlest option again if retinoids have never agreed with you.

Are peptides worth it if I am already using a retinoid?

Yes, and they pair well because they work differently. A retinoid speeds up turnover. Peptides send a signal to build.

They are also far easier on the skin, so a peptide product is a good thing to use on your off nights while your retinoid is still at two or three nights a week.

Medik8 Advanced Pro Collagen+ Peptide Cream and SkinCeuticals P-TIOX Anti-Wrinkle Cream both work as the moisturiser step, which means you are not adding another layer to the routine.

When should I start using anti-ageing products?

Sunscreen from as early as you will tolerate wearing it. Everything else when you actually see something you want to change.

Collagen production starts slowing in the mid twenties, but that does not mean a twenty five year old needs a retinoid. It means they need SPF, because sun exposure is doing more damage than age is.

Most people find their thirties are the natural point to add a retinoid and a vitamin C. Starting earlier than that is not harmful, it is just unlikely to be the best use of your money.

What should I expect in the first few weeks on a retinoid?

Possibly worse before better, and knowing that in advance stops people quitting at the wrong moment.

Dryness and light flaking in weeks two to four are normal. So is a crop of small spots as congestion that was already there comes to the surface. That settles.

What is not normal is burning, weeping or raw patches. If you get those, stop, spend two weeks on a plain moisturiser and restart at half the frequency.

Visible improvement in lines takes twelve weeks at minimum, and the good studies run six months to a year. There is no version of this that works quickly.