Acne & Blemishes

A spot starts when oil and dead skin block a pore. Bacteria that live on everyone's skin then feed on that oil, and the area becomes red and inflamed. Hormones, stress and genetics decide how much oil you make, which is why breakouts often flare around your period or in stressful weeks.

It is not caused by dirty skin, so scrubbing harder will not fix it and usually makes it worse.

• Morning: a gentle gel cleanser such as Caudalie Vinopure Purifying Gel Cleanser 150ml, a light moisturiser, then an oil free SPF like SkinCeuticals Oil Shield UV Defense Sunscreen SPF50 30ml
• Night: cleanse, then a treatment such as The Inkey List BHA Serum 30ml on two or three nights a week, then moisturiser

Keep it simple. Two or three steps used every day beat ten products used on and off.

• Help: salicylic acid to clear pores, azelaic acid for spots and red marks, niacinamide to calm and control oil, and retinoids to stop pores clogging in the first place
• Make it worse: rough scrubs, very rich creams and oils on breakout areas, stripping cleansers that leave skin squeaky, and picking

You probably do not need more than one active to start. Pick one and give it time before adding another.

Give a new routine six to eight weeks. Skin can look a little busier in the first couple of weeks while it adjusts. Red or brown marks left behind take longer, often a few months, to fade.

If your breakouts are deep, painful or leaving scars, or nothing has improved after three months, see your GP or a dermatologist. Some acne needs prescription treatment, and the sooner it is treated the less scarring it leaves.

Yes, with care. Do not use salicylic acid and a retinoid on the same night at first. Alternate them, and only use both together once your skin is comfortable.

SPF matters more, not less. Acids and retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun, and sun darkens the marks spots leave behind. Use an oil free formula every morning.

• Under €30: The Inkey List BHA Serum 30ml for clogged pores, with COSRX Master Patch Basic 36 pack for spots that come up
• €50 to €80: Dermalogica Breakout Biotic Moisturiser 50ml, a light moisturiser made for breakout prone skin
• Over €100: SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum 30ml for breakouts and early signs of ageing together, or Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum 30ml if red and brown marks bother you most

Not sure where to start? Get in touch and tell us how your skin feels by the end of the day, and where you break out.